Your One-Stop Urban Cycling Shop
Tips from the Shop
The chain is arguably the most critical component of your bicycle's drive train. Without it,
you aren't going to go very fast, or very far. Taking care of it is an important part of your bicycle's regular maintenance.
Let's take a look today at the best way to clean and care for this important component.
Modern bicycle chains come primarily in two sizes: 1/2" x 3/32", and 1/2" x 1/8". The 1/2" number refers to the "pitch", which is the distance from the center of one rivet pin to the center of the next rivet pin. The second number, 3/32" or 1/8", refers to the width of the chain measured on the inside. On today's narrower chains this is typically measured along the rivet pin width.
The wider 1/8" chains are typically used on singlespeed bikes that have one rear cog. This can be either "fixed" gear setups, "singlespeeds", BMX, cruisers, and track bikes raced on at the velodrome. These type of bicycles can also use the narrower 3/32" chains, but ONLY if the cogs and chainrings are also 3/2" width. A 1/8" chain can be used on 3/32" cogs and chainrings, but NOT a 3/32" chain on 1/8" cogs and chainrings. At the shop, we recommend that you only use the same size components with each other. For a fixed gear or singelepeed setup used by an adult, we highly recommend that you use only 1/8" components. They are designed to be used with the forces generated in this type of application, and as such are far sturdier than 3/32" width.
Chains are designed with rollers surrounding the connecting pins that hold the links together. The roller is basically a floating sleeve. When the chain passes around the teeth of the cogs and chainrings, it's free to roll and thus maintain contact longer and deliver more force to be translated into forward momentum. The pins are typically "peened" at the end, a process that widens the end of the pin. This design fights the tendency of the chain plates to pull off of the pins. The most common cause of a chain's breaking is a sudden lateral force from the side - typically when accelerating from a stop in a big gear or attempting a "jump" to begin a breakaway. Peening helps to prevent this. With peening being a common manufacturing process in making chains, it's important to remember that in removing a chain and using a connecting pin as in the SHIMANO systems, you should NEVER use the connector pin twice. Leave it in, and remove another pin if you must. We recommend that you either use a chain with a universal link such as SRAM or KMC, or replace the chain altogether.
Chains may have bushings, or be designed as Bushingless. A bushing is a small metal sleeve that surrounds the sleeves rollers and reinforces them. A chain with bushings
will be stiffer and resist lateral flex. This was desirable in the older 5 cog friction shifting systems, but in today's modern indexing systems just the opposite is true.
Modern chains tend to be Bushingless in order to provide the lateral flex necessary to handle indexed 9, 10 and 11 cog systems. In addition, chains may also have side plates
designed with an outward bend to help in shifting. This is still another reason why it's important to use compatible components.
If you are riding a bicycle equipped width derailleurs, you will typically be using a 3/32" chain. This doesn't mean that one 3/32" chain will work on all derailleur systems. As bicycle manufacturers went from 5 & 6 cogs to 7 & 8 and now to 9,10, and even 11 cog systems, the chain's pin width has actually become narrower. The 3/32" chains we used on our 5 speed freehubs in 1970 would never work on the 10 speed cassettes we use today. The older chains measured as much as 8.0 mm at the connecting pin, today's newest chains come in at 6.1mm!
What this means to you is that it's important to use the right chain for your bike's group components. The best course of action is to get what we call an "A" fit in our shop. If you are riding SHIMANO groupos, then use either a SHIMANO or SRAM chain. With SRAM, check the model number and use either a PC-1030 or PC-1050 for ten speed groupos.
If you are riding Campagnolo, use only "Campy" chains. In our experience, nothing else will get you that "A" fit. Getting an "A" fit is all-important in matching your chain to your cogs and chainrings. A loose, or bad fitting chain, will quickly grind your bikes components down. A poorly fitted or worn chain is the one of the more common causes of poor shifting, and a situation that can be easily avoided by identifying the model of chain you need for your drive train and doing a wear check as part of your regular maintenance.
Checking for chain wear can best be done by using one of indicators made by the bicycle tool manufacturers. At the shop we use the CC-2. This device has a pin at each end that fits into two spaces in the chain. At the other end, there is a pin on a pivoting scale that is designed to fit snugly against the next space that can be fit into and read the distance between the chain links on a scale from .25 - 1.0. This design is accurate, but requires some experience on the part of the mechanic to know how "snugly" to hold the pin against the chain. For the consumer, we recommend the Park CC-3. this is a simple "go-no go" feeler gauge. It has a "T" design that allows you to easily fit a rounded end into an opening in your chain links and then and then a straighter tooth on the opposite end. It is two, sided, one side is .75, the other 1.0. We recommend that you immediately replace your chain if the .75 side fits. At 1.0, you are basically operating a highly efficient drive train grinding machine.
Removing the chain is a process that's dictated by the maker of chain you are running. Depending on manufacturer, you will have your chain linked at the end by a master link or a connecting pin. Singlespeed chains, such as KMC, use a universal master link that's held together by clip that fits onto a special link that has two slots on the end. This can be removed by a pair of needle nosed pliers, screwdriver, or special shop tool. It's advantage is that it can be used many times, and allows the chain to be easily removed for maintenance or changing chains for use of different gear sizes. Other manufacturers, such as SRAM and Wipperman, use a snap type link, that has notches in the space where the pins engage. These can be removed by laterally flexing the chain (if you're strong enough) or use of a special master link tool. While these can be re-used, we advise you replace them each time the chain is "broken" as the plates tend to weaken when going through this process.
Other chain systems use a connecting pin. The chain is "broken" by using a chain tool with a drive pin which forces the pin out of its sleeve, the chain is joined by using a special master connecting pin which is driven through the chain hole sleeves by the same tool. Many tool manufacturers make chain tools, but it's important to cheek the specifications to be sure the tool is compatible with the type of chain you are running. SHIMANO chains need to have a tool that is compatible with the SHIMANO chain plates. Not all chain tools can be used with 10-speed chains, due to the pin width discussed in earlier. If you want to buy and use a chain tool, check with a bike shop first. We recommend using a chain with a master link, as it makes cleaning easier and more convenient.
On a sponsored pro team, when you are competing in a race, or at a formal trainng camp, your bicycle is cleaned on a daily basis. As a professional mechanic, much of your time is spent cleaning the rider's bicycles. Chains are cleaned and lubricated daily, and are usually swapped out at 1500K (about 900 miles). This works out to roughly every 8 days, which gives you an idea of the kind of mileage a pro rider will put in. Wheels and cogs are often swapped out daily, particularly in stage races where there may be mountainous stages alternated with flatter runs. Typically there is a major manufacturer signed on a team sponsor, and there is a big box full of chains available to swap in a new one whenever needed. So in practical use a cog and crankset combination is never subjected to the kind of daily wear a recreational rider puts on them.
Lubrication of chains depends on several factors - the style of riding, the rider type, the equipment used, the regular mileage, and environmental conditions. The latter is particularly important. The type of lubricant used during the rainy winters here in Atlanta will be different than what we would use in a race in Spain during the summer. Typically, wetter conditions demand a heavier "weight" of oil that will persist on the contact surfaces and not wash off. The drawback to heavier lubricants is that they will attract grime and build up a residue faster. During drier conditions it's best to use lighter gauge lubricants. At the shop we recommend using several different brands that will do basically the same thing - keep your chain running monthly in the type of environment you are running under.
How often depends to a great deal on how often you ride, and for how long. A good rule of thumb is to always re-lube after you have washed your bike. You should wash your bike at least once a week, so that means re-lubing every week. When we ride on a rainy day, we wash our bikes after every ride in the rain, and relube.
Before applying lubricant, you need to clean off your chain first. While there are several chain cleaners that allow you to put a chamber on your chain and then pedal your chain through the chamber and through cleaning solution, the best way to clean your chain is to do it pro-style and use a pair of brushes and cleaning solution. Once a week - or more if you ride daily and a lot of miles - take your bike outside - put some de-greasing solution in a little water, and run the two brushes along your chain, your chainrings, derailleur cogs - in short, your entire drive train. Take a hose, wash it all off, then repeat. Run a dry rag long your drive train, then if it's sunny, leave your bike out in the sun to dry. That's all you need.
(Joe's note: In Europe, particularly the low countries of Belgium, Netherlands, and Luxembourg, cyclocross has always been a very popular fall and winter sport. This area of Europe tends to get alot of rain during that time of year, and as a result, LOTS of mud. A feature of these races is a washing station where riders can get their bikes washed to get the mud off. The stations are inevitably manned by old guys wearing cycling caps and smoking "Galouises" filterless cigarettes, andusing just a pair of brushes and cleaning solution. Your bike is never as clean as after these old guys get through with it.)
When applying your lube to your chain, it's important to get the lube on the rollers, and on the INSIDE of your chain. Not only is this not necessary on the outside, it will also tend to attract grit and grime on the outside of your chain and affect performance. With the lighter grades, we put the bike on a stand, spin the pedals while applying the lube to the center, then the inside of the chain for one complete revolution. Then we run the chain through a rag. With the heavier gauges of lube, we spin the chain slowly, applying a drop to each roller as it passes the bottle, then wipe the chain down. The important thing here is to remember to apply the lube liberally, but not too heavily, then wipe the chain down.
Following these simple procedures on a regular basis will not only extend the life of your components, but also make for a better performing, and faster bike.